Alaverdi and The Debed Canyon: An Easy Travel Guide!
December 6, 2024
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Are you embarking on a trip through Southeast Asia to explore the lush jungles, magnificent temples, and feast on the most delicious Asian food? Chances are you will include Laos and Thailand in your trip and there is no better way to travel between these countries than by taking the slow boat on the mighty Mekong River. In this post, I will tell you everything you need to know about the slow boat from Luang Prabang in Laos to Chiang Khong in Thailand.
Luang Prabang, Laos
Located in the heart of Laos, Luang Prabang is one of my favorite cities in the world. Not only is it a UNESCO World Heritage site, but it also boasts a wonderful night market, stunning natural sights and not to forget, it has an incredible location at the confluence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan Rivers.
Absolute highlights are by far the Kuang Si Falls and the slightly less popular Tat Sae Waterfalls. After exploring everything Luang Prabang has to offer, it’s time to move on. A lot of travelers end their travels in Laos in Luang Prabang and decide to make their way from Luang Prabang to Thailand.
This can be done in various ways, by bus or plane, but the most scenic way to get from Luang Prabang to Thailand is by taking a slow boat on the Mekong River!
The Mekong River, Luang Prabang, Laos
Taking the slow boat from Laos to Thailand is an unforgettable journey and a popular way to travel between these two countries. It’s a two-day boat trip with an overnight stop in the small town of Pak Beng, the halfway point of this journey.
Along the way, you’ll have the chance to immerse yourself deeply in the local Laotian culture, while you pass by stunning natural scenery and cute local villages.
On the second day of the trip, the boat will drop you off in the Lao town of Huay Xai right by the border with Northern Thailand. From there, you have to cross the large bridge and pass immigration before finally arriving in the Thai town of Chiang Khong. You can opt to spend the night in Chiang Khong or decide to book onward travel at the immigration office.
I will go into detail about every aspect of this trip, from buying your slow boat ticket in Luang Prabang to what to expect when arriving in Chiang Khong.
One thing is for sure: taking the slow boat from Laos to Thailand is a once-in-a-lifetime experience you will never forget!
Kuang Si Falls, Luang Prabang, Laos
Here are a few useful things to know before embarking on your trip. A lot of people think that the slow boat to Thailand leaves from the center of Luang Prabang but this is not the case. Also, prices can vary greatly depending on where you buy your ticket!
Here’s what you need to know.
Getting from Luang Prabang to Thailand takes two days with one overnight stop in the town of Pak Beng. In general, you will spend eight hours on the boat per day.
In my case, the boat trip took longer on both days. How long the boat trip takes depends on many factors. During my trip, a lot of locals need to be dropped off at the many little villages that you pass by on the river. It took the boat 10 hours on both days to get to its end destination.
It’s wise not to focus too much on arriving at the pre-mentioned time but join the trip instead!
There are several tour companies and travel agencies in town selling tickets for the overnight boat trip to Huay Xai. Prices can vary greatly and tend to be the highest in the area around Kingkitsarath Road behind Phousi Hill.
Eventually, after some shopping around for prices, we bought our tickets at a small agency, called Galaxy Travel, near the Mekong River. You can be sure to get the best prices here and it also includes a pick-up at your accommodation to get to the boat dock.
As of January 2024, the lovely local owner of Galaxy Travel charges 480.000 kips per person for the two-day slow boat trip with pick-up.
Another option is to make your way to the boat dock yourself by Tuk-Tuk or Motorbike and bike the tickets over there at a reduced price. This will cost less, but you will have to pay extra for a transfer to the boat dock, so I’m not sure if it’s worth the effort.
→ Quick question: As we all know, prices can increase rapidly. If you notice that the price I mentioned above is not correct anymore, I would appreciate it if you would let me know me the latest price via my contact page. This helps me to keep everything up-to-date. Thanks!
The Mekong River bank where the slow boats from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai are located
The slow boat terminal to Pak Beng and Huay Xai is located eight kilometers outside the center of Luang Prabang and it takes about 15 minutes to get there by Tuk-tuk. You will need to show your passport and ticket before you can take the stairs down the boat for boarding.
Slow boats to Pak Beng leave the boat dock every morning at 8.30 A.M. In general, you don’t have to worry about the boats being overbooked or securing a good seat. There are several boats at the dock and boats leave according to how many passengers need transport.
Make sure you arrive at the boat terminal half an hour before departure so that you’ll have enough time to verify your documents at the slow boat terminal office.
Fresh spring rolls
On the slow boat, it’s possible to buy drinks like beer, soft drinks, tea, and coffee. Also, instant noodles are for sale but there is no restaurant on the boat. It’s important, before embarking on your trip, that you stock up on snacks to make it through the day.
Since the slow boat leaves early in the morning, the best time to do this is at the night market the day before. For our trip, we bought fried noodles, fresh spring rolls, cookies, and fruit. It’s handy if you have a fridge at your accommodation to keep things fresh until the next day.
Alternatively, you can hit the morning market to pick up some fresh produce but note that the pick up at your accommodation to the boat terminal is at 7 A.M.
Here are the websites I personally use whenever I travel to Laos:
Booking.com: For the best cheap guesthouses, homestays or small hotels
Hostelworld: To find the best hostels located in the cities
Homestay: For a unique immersive homestay experience in Luang Prabang
12GO and Bookaway: The best transport websites for long-distance buses and train travel in Laos
Loca: Uber and Grab don’t operate in Laos but Vientiane has its own ride-hailing app called Loca!
Skyscanner: For affordable flights to Vientiane or Luang Prabang
Viator and Get Your Guide: book all kinds of activities from a Kuang Si waterfall cruise to a private cave and jungle trekking in Vang Vieng!
Get your Visa for Laos online through the Evisa website. Do note that you cannot enter just any border with the Evisa. You can fly with an Evisa into Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Pakse and cross three borders with Thailand. They don’t accept the Evisa when you want to cross a land border coming from Vietnam, Cambodia, or China. It’s best to contact the Laotian embassies in these countries to obtain a visa.
If you’re looking for travel insurance, the one with the best benefits online is without a doubt Heymondo! It’s very easy to ask for a quote on the website and if you book with this link you’ll get 5% off!
Get access to mobile data straight away when entering the country with a Laos E-sim or an Asialink E-sim when traveling through multiple countries.
Once you’re on the boat, you’ll start your journey down the Mekong River. YAY!
It’s fair to say though that the slow boats can vary greatly in comfort and layout. Our boat had the same layout both for the trip from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng and Pak Beng to Huay Xai.
Boarding the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai
It consisted of a small upper area with hard seating near the captain and a large lower-lying area with rows of comfortable cushy seats. I’ve seen boats in Pak Beng, however, that also had tables and were a lot more luxurious! I later found out that these boats were not public but belonged to a travel agency instead (more info on that later in the post!).
On the boat, you can also find a toilet (including toilet paper) and a small bar that sells snacks like instant noodles, beers, soft drinks, and coffee and tea. You can also get hot water for free.
The boats are well-equipped with life jackets and have a roof to protect travelers from the sun or heavy rain.
Do note that the engine is located in the back of the boat and is very loud. If you are able to get on the boat early, it’s a good idea to secure a spot near the front of the boat, where the cushy seats start.
The first day of the slow boat journey takes around 8-10 hours before making the overnight stop in Pak Beng.
Along the way, you’ll pass by local villages, incredible rock formations, small Mekong beaches, and jungle scenery. As it is a slow boat, the pace of the trip is leisurely and relaxed, with plenty of time to sit back and soak in the views around you.
The slow boat from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng
Our boat made a lot of stops at small local villages on the banks of the Mekong River to drop off passengers. It often seemed like they had been away for a while because in most cases they were greeted by a large number of friends and family upon arrival.
Small villages along the Mekong River
Because most of these villages are only accessible by boat, we also made a lot of stops to drop off goods and supplies. You will also be amazed about how many scenic rocks and cute beaches you’ll pass by along the way.
When you are traveling in the dry season you can also tell from the marks on the rocks how high the water can get during the rainy season. And probably how wild the Mekong can get during that time of the year!
Dropping of goods at a small village
The boat ride is lovely but, do be aware that most of the locals on the boat don’t know that it is important to collect waste. It was weird to witness, but in general, they threw organic waste like the peels of bananas and oranges on the floor of the boat while they flipped plastic items like coffee cups into the Mekong.
If they would do it the other way around, this would already make a huge difference!
The slow boat from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng
Also, note that the seats in the boat are not fixed to the floor but can be moved around. As the day progressed, a lot of travelers decided to move a few seats together to create cozy nooks. This allowed them to create a bit of privacy and enough space to lie comfortably to take a nap.
Finally, our boat arrived at 6.30 P.M. in Pak Beng, 10 hours after leaving Luang Prabang.
Once you arrive in Pak Beng, it’s very tempting to run out of the boat to look for a great place to stay. A tip I’d like to give you here is to keep your backpack with you on the boat and stash it under your legs.
The slow boat pier in Pak Beng
In the front of the boat is a hatch, where the staff will stash all the backpacks and suitcases at the start of the trip. Don’t allow them to do this with your backpack.
Upon arrival, it takes a while to get them all out again and it will require you to wait until you get to be reunited with your backpack. This will prevent you from making a quick exit from the boat in search of a place to stay.
Entrance of Pak Beng town
Pak Beng is a small town and the main tourism infrastructure is set up on the main street that leads to the boat dock. You won’t get lost here! Pak Beng has a laid-back atmosphere with a few guesthouses, restaurants, and small shops selling snacks.
Main street in Pak Beng
DP Guesthouse, Pak Beng, Laos.
We found a good room at a place called DP Guesthouse. It wasn’t on any booking site but received good reviews on Google Maps. We paid 150.000 kips for one night. The room was decent, with nice sheets and a hot water shower.
If you like a bit of luxury, you can opt to stay at the Sanctuary Pakbeng Lodge.
Food stalls and restaurants in Pak Beng
There are a few restaurants in town where you can enjoy a relaxed dinner. After checking out the menus and atmosphere of all the restaurants, we chose Sivilai restaurant for our evening meal. The restaurant is named Sabaidee Restaurant on Google Maps.
The food here is Laotian local food and the owner speaks English very well. The noodles we had were so good that we ordered some takeaway for our next leg of the boat trip the next day.
In the morning, the lady was waiting for us with our food at 7 A.M. We also bought some cookies and fresh fruit and had a sandwich at the restaurant of Pakbeng Guesthouse.
We were told to be at the dock in the morning at 7.30 A.M. But the truth is that this is a bit early and not really necessary. The boat didn’t leave until 8.30 A.M. but it’s a good idea to go early to secure a good seat.
When you arrive at the dock the next morning be sure to board the right boat. The boats that leave for Huay Xai and the one leaving for Luang Prabang are lying right next to one another and many people boarded the wrong boat when they first arrived.
The slow boats to Huay Xai and Luang Prabang waiting at the dock in Pak Beng
The second leg of the trip is quite similar to the first day. On the way, you will pass small villages, beautiful rock formations, and deserted beaches by the river. Occasionally, you will see locals fishing, swimming in the water, or doing laundry on the shores.
A local Mekong slow boat transporting animals along the water
Similar to the first day, a lot of locals were dropped off at their villages but there weren’t as many of them on the boat as on the first day. On the second day, our boat was only half-full. It was a great feeling to not be stuck on an overcrowded boat (which was the case for the ones going from Pak Beng to Luang Prabang!).
Beautiful rock formations along the water during the slow boat trip to Huay Xai
Everyone on the boat had ample space to move around, to create little nooks and there was plenty of space to lie down and take a nap. The second leg of the trip even felt more comfortable than the first one.
Locals going about their day
When your boat gets closer and closer to the Thai border, the Mekong will open up. At some points, it gets really wide with occasionally a little island in the middle of the river.
Our boat was again slower than expected, but after 9 hours we were finally able to see the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge nr. 4 in the distance. This is where the border crossing into Thailand takes place.
Beaches along the Mekong
At this point, something unpleasant happened. Everyone on the boat expected to be dropped off at the bridge for border crossing but unfortunately, this is not the case.
You are taken to a dock that lies in the center of Huay Xai, which is kilometers further down the river, and an extra hour of sailing. We kindly asked the captain if we could be dropped off at a little dock near the bridge but he refused.
We rebelled a little bit claiming that this was not fair considering the fact that all the locals get dropped off and picked up at random locations along the way.
Bridge for the border crossing into Thailand neat Huay Xai
When we asked the captain about the reason behind this he made a sign that he could go to prison if he allowed us to get off the boat before reaching Huay Xai village.
I’m not sure if this is a rule imposed by the government or by the police. My assumption is that they are forced by the local taxi mob to drop off foreigners at a certain place so they can benefit from the tourist money. They were certainly waiting for us upon arrival and were trying to scam us to get to the immigration office.
The only way to get from the boat dock back to the immigration office at the bridge is by taking a tuk tuk. Don’t let them scam you here. Upon our arrival, they wanted to charge us 100.000 kips per person. We were seven people so this would mean we needed to pay around 35 to 40 euros for a tuk-tuk to take us on a 10-kilometer trip.
We were able to get the price down to 50.000 kips per person but I think that even this was still way too much.
I also think that another reason why they extend our arrival time is that the immigration office officially closes at 4 P.M. Everyone who arrives at the office past that hour needs to pay an overtime fee of 10.000 kips which means more incoming money for them.
According to the sign at the immigration office, the overtime fee needs to be paid between 4 P.M. and 8 P.M. I assume the office closes up after that.
Bus station with a bus to take you from the Lao to the Thai immigration office
Getting through the Lao immigration process is a breeze. You will need your passport of course and also the travel document you received when you entered the country. Don’t worry if you lost it. There are fresh documents available at the immigration office that you can fill out.
After going through immigration you cannot just walk over the bridge. You will need to take a shuttle bus and this costs 25.000 kips per person. At the bus stop, you also have the chance to change your leftover Laotian kips to Thai Baht at a decent exchange rate.
The bus will drop you off on the other side of the bridge at the Thai immigration office where you will need to fill out a new document before receiving your 45-day stamp in your passport.
After going through the Thai immigration you have two options: to stay overnight in Chiang Khong or to book onward travel in Thailand. At this point, it will already be around 8 P.M.
There is no possibility anymore to take public transport to cities like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai but it is, however, possible to book private vans. This is particularly interesting if you can split the costs with a few other travelers.
One group of travelers decided to book a van to Chiang Mai and another group to Chiang Rai while the rest of decided to stay overnight in Chiang Khong.
The cleanest pool I have ever seen at Pongkham Resort and Guesthouse
There will be a taxi waiting at the exit of the immigration office to take passengers into town. This trip has a fixed price of 100 THB (€ 2,5) per person and includes a drop-off at your accommodation.
We stayed at Namkhong Resort and Guesthouse and we had such a good time there that we decided to spend an extra night in Chiang Khong. To be honest, we also were too late to book the bus to Chiang Mai the next day (it was fully booked) but in the end, this was an advantage. We were able to take some rest in Chiang Khong and enjoy the atmosphere of this authentic Thai town.
Thaifood Original was the only restaurant that was still open when we arrived in the center of town. It’s a one-woman restaurant serving Thai and Italian dishes. The menu also included a few vegan and vegetarian options.
Buses to Chiang Mai or Bangkok in Thailand can be booked on 12GoASia.
If the local slow boat scares you off because of its rather primitive form of travel, another option exists. Shompoo Cruise is a travel agent and tour company based in Luang Prabang that offers a Mekong River cruise.
They have four slow boats and, instead of the basic amenities you find on the public slow boat, these boats are made to cater to travelers who like a bit more comfort.
The Shompoo boats offer comfy seats (wooden benches with pillows), tables, breakfast and lunch, and activities. Upon departure, the boat stops at Pak Ou Caves, and on the second day, it makes a quick stop at a rural village where you can learn about traditional life in Laos.
The itinerary is the same. It’s a two-day boat trip from Luang Prabang to the border town of Huay Xai. The cost of the boat trip starts at 200 $ without a hotel in Pak Beng included. If you fancy staying in Le Grand Pak Beng in Pak Beng, the price rises to 290 $.
As you can see, taking the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Laos is quite an experience and an adventure you will never forget!
I hope you enjoyed this slow boat guide from Luang Prabang to Thailand. If you have any questions, please let them know in the comments below or drop me a message through my contact page!
ENJOY!
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Hi! I am Annelies and this is Travelers & Dreamers, a blog about conscious travel which means traveling in a more mindful way, with a positive impact on the world and yourself!
On this website, I cover different topics like slow travel, plant-based food guides, responsible travel, sustainable packing, eco-travel, and more!
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Lutchie
Hello! Thank you for your blog. I find this very helpful. Question, are there ATMs in Thailand border? Thank you!
annelies_degelas
Hey! Sorry for my late reply.
Yes, there are ATM’s at the Thai border. We had enough baht since we had some Laotian kips to change but you can withdraw money there if needed! 🙂
Emma
This is awesome and so helpful. As a result, we’ve decided not to fly but to follow your blog! Thank you for your time x
annelies_degelas
You’re welcome, Emma! x