Pu Luong Nature Reserve in Vietnam: All You Need to Know!
October 4, 2024
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Pu Luong Nature Reserve, located in the northern highlands of Vietnam, is a beautiful mountainous region famous for its picturesque landscapes, rural villages, and rice terraces. Pu Luong is not on the tourist radar yet and this makes it an ideal destination for nature lovers who are looking for a relaxed, unique, and unforgettable experience. In this blog, we will explore the things to do, where to stay, and how to get to Pu Luong. Here we go!
Neverending rice paddies in the north of Vietnam
Pu Luong is a gorgeous nature reserve located about 160 kilometers from Hanoi. It situates itself in not one but two provinces; Hoa Binh and Thanh Hoa Province. It is not discovered by mass tourism yet and is a true hidden gem in Vietnam. We had to share the area with only a handful of other tourists during our trip in December.
With plenty of activities to choose from, you won’t be at a loss for what to do in Pu Luong. The serene rivers and streams offer a wonderful opportunity for walking and exploring the water wheels. Trekkers can spend days in the lush rainforest, discovering hidden waterfalls, bird watching, and more.
For something truly special, rent a bike and use the trails carved into the mountains to connect with villages and people. Or just enjoy the peaceful hum of nature and relax with a book or a picnic in the rural landscape.
Not only can you explore the beauty of Pu Luong, but you can also take part in its local culture. Spend a morning at the weekly Pho Doan market to sample local dishes and visit artisans’ stalls. Come with an open heart and ready to engage with the friendly locals. With any luck, you’ll be invited to one of the traditional ceremonies held in the area, giving you a true taste of Thai culture.
→ Also read: 15 Great Things to Do in Tam Coc (Ninh Binh)
Walking trails with gorgeous limestone mountains in the backdrop
Yes, Pu Luong is certainly worth visiting but it might not be an ideal destination for everyone. Pu Luong is pretty remote. While it is dotted with quaint villages and picturesque scenery, there are little to no tourist facilities.
You can find a few mini-markets where you can buy water, cookies, and goods like shampoo but that’s about it. There are almost no restaurants in Pu Luong, so be prepared to eat at your accommodation most of the time.
Pu Luong is a truly amazing destination if you like to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations and like to get an idea of what Vietnam was like before tourism set in.
It might not be for you if you like to have tourist facilities like motorbike hire, a lot of restaurants, coffee shops, and streets lined with tour operators.
Sunset in Pu Luong, Vietnam
There are many things to do in Pu Luong and most of them involve immersing yourself in the gorgeous scenery and the Thai culture. The food I had in my homestay was some of the best during my whole trip through Vietnam and the friendliness of the locals was absolutely heartwarming.
Here are the best things to do in Pu Luong! All these activities can be done at any time of the year, whether your visiting during winter or in the summer months.
Hiking is one of the main things to do in Pu Luong. There are some beautiful country roads that allow you to climb to the hilltops, pass by small villages and walk through banana plantations. It’s really easy to get lost but that is kind of the beauty of it.
Hiking is one of the best outdoor activities here!
The views of the surrounding mountains and the valleys are simply breathtaking. If you get out of bed early, you can hike to one of the hilltops in the morning to catch the sunrise. There will be a thick mist around the mountains adding to a mystique atmosphere.
While most of the accommodation in Pu Luong is located around the main road, the best area to hike, in my opinion, is further away from the main road, in the direction of Ban Hieu.
→ Also read: Hiking in Cat Ba National Park in Vietnam
Pu Luong Nature Reserve is dotted with cute local villages and you can easily visit a few of them by hiring a mountain bike for the day. The ethnic groups that live in Pu Luong are diverse but the main group that inhabits these lands is the White Thai.
Ethnic Thai villages in Pu Luong, Vietnam
The White Thais have settled in these parts of Northern Vietnam a long time ago however, their cultural habits still differ from traditional Vietnamese culture. The language they speak differs greatly from regular Vietnamese and is a mix of Thai and Vietnamese languages mixed together.
Local daily life of the Thai, Pu Luong, Vietnam
As you walk through Pu Luong, you can admire their built-on-stilt houses, observe them harvesting crops, working on the terraced rice fields and go about their everyday life.
I have to say that I was really impressed with some of the things I saw here. For instance, the women in Pu Luong are very hardworking, resilient, and admirable individuals. One day, I even saw some of them paving new roads in one of the villages.
The sense of community is really strong in these areas as well as how they still live in harmony with nature. It’s something that unfortunately seems lost in the western parts of the world.
A great way to experience the authenticity of these Thai minority villages is by staying in a homestay for a few nights. At the end of this post, I will give some suggestions on where to stay in Pu Luong.
→ Also read: Mai Chau, Vietnam: Everything You Need to Know
You can find the Thac Hieu waterfall in Hieu village in the Co Long Commune. It’s a community-based ecotourism destination and, with it’s homestay program, one of the nices places to stay in Pu Luong.
Hieu waterfall
The Hieu waterfall flows right through Hieu village. It is 800 meters in length and actually consists of five small waterfalls, with an occasional pool that is deep enough for swimming. The water has a beautiful blue-green color and it can be enjoyed year-round however, the local villagers will look at you like you’re crazy when you take a dip in the middle of winter!
Mountain biking in Pu Luong Nature Reserve
Many cities and towns in Vietnam are full of motorbikes, ridden by locals as well as by tourists. This is not the case in Pu Luong! While you will occasionally see a local on a motorbike, the main mean of transport offered to tourists is bicycles. This is kind of refreshing because it minimizes air pollution and it also prevents the streets from getting busy and noisy.
Cycling is great here but conquering the mountains can be tough!
The streets around Pu Luong are pretty decent to ride a bicycle, however, you will need a mountain bike to climb the hills and there are certain mountain roads that even the best cyclist will have trouble conquering.
A lot of homestays offer bicycles that can be used free of charge.
Water wheels
The bamboo water wheels that you will see around Pu Luong are a symbol for the area as well as for the Thai people. The Thai people invented the water wheels for agricultural development. Rice cultivation is done in different ways across Asia and in Pu Luong rice can only be cultivated by submerging the fields in water.
The water wheels are used to extract water from the streams and rivers to irrigate the surrounding fields. The best place to see these water wheels is Chien Lau village, located 5 kilometers from Canh Nang town but you can spot small water wheels in many parts of Pu Luong.
While most of the accommodation is located near the main road that cuts through Pu Luong Nature Reserve, a homestay experience in a tiny village away from the main tourist towns is an experience you will never forget.
Pu Luong Holiday, Vietnam
In Pu Luong, you can find homestays that suit everyone’s taste, from more rustic and simple huts in traditional stilt houses to boutique-style homestays in the rice fields with a pool.
I stayed at Pu Luong Holiday, a homestay that is located at the border of Hieu village. The serenity of the place was wonderful and even though the pool was out of service, it stole my heart in an instant.
At this homestay, you can experience true Thai culture. You will be welcomed with traditional tea, sleep in a beautiful bamboo cabin, and get the chance to enjoy delicious Thai food cooked by the hostess.
Healthy vegan meals at our homestay
Since there are little to no restaurants in Pu Luong, aside from a few near the main road, you will mainly have to have breakfast, lunch, and dinner at your accommodation. Staying in a homestay is the best way to experience local Thai cuisine and it is absolutely delicious.
At Pu Luong holiday, I was able to enjoy simple but flavorful dishes cooked by the hostess. It consisted of mostly rice or noodles accompanied by one or two vegetable dishes. They were knowledgeable about dietary restrictions and had no problem catering to vegans.
I highly recommend staying and eating at a local homestay in Pu Luong. I personally tried one of the restaurants on the main road and it was horrible. Not only were the prices triple what you pay at a homestay, but the quality was also even worse than poor. I ordered a pumpkin soup and it was nothing more than cooked pieces of pumpkin mixed in a blender without seasoning.
→ Also read: A Traveler’s Guide to Vegan Food in Vietnam
When you think about rice terraces in Vietnam, the first place that probably enters your mind is Sapa. But did you know that Pu Luong holds the same spectacular scenery, without the tourist crowds of Sapa?
Rice paddies
The rice terraces at Pu Luong might be a little less steep than the ones in Sapa but they are equally beautiful. The rice paddies are lovely at every time of the year but for the most spectacular views, it’s best to visit during the green season in late May, or early June.
There are a few caves in Pu Luong and Hang Doi cave (kho muong cave) is considered the most popular one. If you have previously visited the caves of Phong Nha or Mai Chau, then don’t expect too much of this one.
However, the road to the cave through Kho Muong village is lovely and this is also a bat cave. if you are not afraid of bats, you can see them sleeping during the day but a better thing to do is watch them fly out in the evening as this doesn’t cause any disturbance into their natural habitat.
→ Also read: Hang Mua Viewpoint + Mua Caves: Is It Worth It?
Gorgeous views of the mountains, rice fields and villages
The scenery of Pu Luong is gorgeous and there are many wonderful photo opportunities. The karst mountains, the rice fields, and the small villages give the area a magical feel, especially in the morning when the sun sets and at the golden hour just before it gets dark.
Recently a new road has been built between Don village and the lower villages. If you walk down, you will have a magnificent view over Chom Ui village (see photo above). The road is not marked on Google Maps yet as an asphalted road but you can see a line with green dots between Pu Luong Treehouse in Don village that lead to Chom Ui.
If you happen to be in the area of Pu Luong on a Thursday or a Sunday, then don’t forget to visit the local market at Pho Doan village.
Twice a week, Thai ethnic minorities from all over the region come to this market to sell their goods, like fruits and vegetables, colorful traditional clothes, silk, meat, and household equipment.
It’s the event of the week here, locals get all enthusiastic and in my opinion it even had a little party vibe to it. It’s definitely the place for them to get social with the people from around the area.
Here are the websites I personally use whenever I travel to Vietnam:
Booking.com: For the best cheap guesthouses, homestays or small hotels
Hostelworld: To find the best hostels located in the cities
Homestay: For unique immersive homestays in the cities as well as in the Vietnamese countryside
12GO and Bookaway: The best transport websites for long-distance buses and train travel in Vietnam and Southeast Asia
GRAB: for taxi rides in cities and nearby attractions
Skyscanner: For affordable flights to Vietnam
Eatwith: Dine with locals inside their home for an immersive foodie experience
Withlocals: Experience cities in Vietnam with local people that show you around. This is a good idea if you want to stray off the beaten path!
Viator and Get Your Guide: For (vegan) food tours, street food tours, and tours in general
Get your Visa for Vietnam online through the Evisa website
If you’re looking for travel insurance, the one with the best benefits online is without a doubt Heymondo! It’s very easy to ask for a quote on the website and if you book with this link you’ll get 5% off!
Get access to mobile data straight away when entering the country with a Vietnam E-sim or an Asialink E-sim when traveling through multiple countries.
Views of the valley
The reason why this area of Vietnam is not that frequently visited by foreign tourists is because it’s not that easily reachable by public transport. There are no trains to Pu Luong and only recently buses from Hanoi and Ninh Binh serve this location.
In fact, at the time of our visit (December 2022) we had the honor to take the first bus service ever between Pu Luong and Ninh Binh.
→ Also read: 12 Excellent Vegan Restaurants in Hanoi
The best and cheapest way to get from Hanoi to Pu Luong is by minivan. Minivans operated by various tour companies leave Hanoi every day early in the morning to ply the route to Pu Luong. Ticket prices start at € 20 and can be bought through 12GoAsia.
Do note that the drop-off point in Pu Luong is along the main road and that it’s possible that the minivan won’t drop you off at your accommodation. In that case, it’s best to arrange a taxi to pick you up at the drop-off point through the hosts of your accommodation.
It’s also possible to book a private taxi to Pu Luong. Ask your accommodation in Hanoi fur current prices.
Even though Mai Chau is in close proximity to Pu Luong there is no bus operating this route so far. We decided to try to take a local bus to Van Mai village first and hitchhike from there but that’s not a good idea. Once you pass Co Luong there are almost no cars anymore taking this route which makes it incredibly hard to hitchhike.
We eventually got picked up by a couple of female cops who insisted to call a private car to take us all the way to Pu Luong saying that our mission was impossible and honestly, I really don’t recommend it.
A private taxi to Pu Luong can be arranged at any accommodation in Mai Chau and should cost no more than VND 700. Alternatively, you can hire a motorbike in Mai Chau and visit Pu Luong on a day trip.
We took the first bus ever from Pu Luong to Ninh Binh. It was a large bus, not a minivan and it even dropped us off at our accommodation in Trang An. The price of the bus ticket was €14/ per person.
Now, two years later, I can see that there are plenty of buses driving the route between Ninh Binh and Pu Luong, both the large bus that I took as well as shuttle buses and minivans from different companies. You can easily book your tickets on 12go Asia for about $ 15 (14 €).
Alternatively, you can hire a private car on Bookaway to take you to Pu Luong. This is especially interesting if you’re traveling in a small group and can split the costs. You will also get to Pu Luong much faster this way and you can even decide to make a stop at Cuc Phuong National Park which is on the road to Pu Luong.
Watery rice paddies
Pu Luong Nature Reserve can be visited year-round. Do note that it can get quite cold at night during the winter season and that the pools of the accommodation might be not available. It is a great moment to visit though if you like to have a location all to yourself. You will hardly see any other tourists during the winter months and the temperatures hover around 20 degrees Celsius during the day.
If you want to see the rice fields in all their glory it’s best to visit at the end of May or early June for the green season when the locals plant their new crops. On the other hand, September and October are also great times to visit. At that time of the year, the rice fields turn yellow and you can witness the harvesting which is often accompanied by local festivities.
There are two main areas in Pu Luong with a cluster of accommodation options, more specifically on the main road around Don village and further off the beaten path in Hieu village. Having visited both areas, I have to say that I found the area around Hieu village to be more picturesque so I would recommend staying there.
BAN HIEU:
The best place to eat in Pu Luong is at a local homestay. There are almost no restaurants in Pu Luong except for the ones on the main road but the quality of food was not good at the time of my visit.
That said, every accommodation has its own restaurant so you won’t go hungry but I would opt to stay at a homestay instead of a resort. That way you can experience some home-cooked tasty local Thai food as a conscious traveler, instead of an expensive resort meal.
All accommodations also sell drinks like water, soda and beers.
→ Also read: Legal drinking age in Vietnam: Things to know!
Terraced rice paddies
Pu Luong Nature Reserve offers a unique and unforgettable experience for those who are looking to explore Vietnam’s picturesque landscapes and rural villages.
With plenty of things to do, some lovely homestays, and decent transportation options, you can make the most of your trip by following the advice in this blog.
From trekking through the lush hills and valleys to staying in a comfortable and traditional homestay there are plenty of ways to explore and enjoy Pu Luong Nature Reserve.
There you go! I hope you enjoyed this Pu Luong travel guide. Let me know in the comment below if you have any remarks or drop me a message through my contact page if you have a burning question that you can’t find the answer to!
Also, don’t forget to check out my resources page with my favorite booking platforms and tips to start planning your trip. Additionally, have a look at my favorite travel gear if you want to pack more consciously!
ENJOY!
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Hi! I am Annelies and this is Travelers & Dreamers, a blog about conscious travel which means traveling in a more mindful way, with a positive impact on the world and yourself!
On this website, I cover different topics like slow travel, plant-based food guides, responsible travel, sustainable packing, eco-travel, and more!
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