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Medellin, Colombia. The first thing that probably pops into your mind is: ‘Isn’t that the most dangerous city in the world?’ While Medellin was once indeed a place where drug cartels ruled and deadly violence was a part of daily life, in recent years, the city has made a dramatic turnaround and is now emerging as one of the most innovative and community-minded cities in the world. To witness this transformation, there’s no better place to visit in Medellin than Comuna 13!
Plaza Botero, La Candelaria, Medellin
Medellin, Colombia‘s second-largest city is located in the Aburra Valley surrounded by lush green mountains. Once on the daily international news in the 1990s, for the escapades of notorious drug lord Pablo Escobar and his strong grip on society, today Medellin has transformed itself into a hub for innovation, culture, and progressive thinking.
Medellin is often referred to as the “City of Eternal Spring,” and this couldn’t be less true. The city enjoys a temperate climate year-round, making it a perfect destination to visit at any time of the year.
Some of the most important sights in Medellin are the innovative MetroCable which improved city accessibility drastically for locals living on the slopes of the mountains, the dynamic cultural scene that fills the streets with colorful murals, music, and festivals, and the art of world-famous artist Fernando Botero.
You can feel the city’s progressive spirit the most in places like Comuna 13, once a no-go zone, but now a collection of colorful streets that breathes stories of hope and renewal.
Comuna 13 outdoor escalators, Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as San Javier, is located in the western part of Medellin. It is situated on the city’s hilly terrain and is characterized by its maze of small streets, most of them inaccessible by car.
Comuna 13 is comprised of many barrios with Plan del Che and Independencias I, II, and III as the main areas of tourism in Comuna 13. Other barrios include Nuevos Conquistadores, Belencito la Colina, Belencito Betania, and many more.
As you step into the colorful streets of Comuna 13, you’re immediately greeted by vivid murals, friendly locals, and hip-hop tunes, a remarkable change from how this part of the city was like, 20 to 30 years ago.
One of the most eye-catching features of Comuna 13 is its outdoor electric escalators. They were installed in 2011 to help the residents navigate the steep hills more easily but grew out to be a symbol of hope and resilience in the community.
To understand why Comuna 13 is such a special place in Medellin and an example for the rest of the world, you need to understand the gruesome history of the history first!
During the 1980s and 1990s, Comuna 13 was one of the most violent areas in Medellin, caught in the crossfire of drug cartels, guerrilla warfare, and paramilitary groups fighting for control. This period was characterized by widespread violence, including bombings, assassinations, and armed conflicts.
While the drug trade brought wealth to some, it also brought about cycles of poverty and violence that affected marginalized communities, especially those in Comuna 13. The illegal economy and the enticement of quick money led many young people into lives of crime, further destabilizing the community.
However, today, Comuna 13 has turned its notorious past into a fascinating story of change, attracting tourists from around the world. When you visit Comuna 13 now, you can see transformative urban projects, engage with the local culture, and learn about the community’s history through street art and guided tours.
Comuna 13 has become an example of the power of community engagement and activism. While the government also implemented radical changes, especially the Comuna 13 residents have played a crucial role in driving change, advocating for peace, and participating in social and cultural programs aimed at improving their community.
To understand the story of Comuna 13 better, we need to dive a bit more into its history first. I’m not going to get too deep into the details here, because that would spoil your tour! Here is a brief overview of what the situation was like in Comuna 13 and Medellin from the 1980s until now.
The 1980s were characterized by the rise of the drug cartels. During that time, Medellin became the epicenter of drug trafficking in Colombia, with Pablo Escobar’s Medellin Cartel dominating the cocaine trade. During these years, the city experienced a significant increase in violence and crime.
Comuna 13, among other neighborhoods, suffers from the consequences of the drug war, including homicides, kidnappings, and extreme violence.
Economic inequality led to the expansion of informal settlements, with Comuna 13 facing severe socio-economic challenges.
During the 1990s, the Medellin Cartel’s influence peaked early in the decade and this led to an all-time high in violence, with bombings, assassinations, and battles with rival cartels and government forces.
Eventually, even though he was protected by some people inside the government, they managed to kill Pablo Escobar in 1993. After that, the Colombian government intensified its efforts to dismantle the drug cartels and restore order, but violence persisted as smaller factions tried to grab control.
Comuna 13 remained caught in the crossfire of ongoing conflicts between drug traffickers, paramilitaries, and leftist guerrillas, which worsened the area’s struggles even further.
Comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia
In 2002, the local government, under the rule of newly elected president Alvaro Uribe, launched Operation Orion, which were military operations in Comuna 13 to eradicate rebel groups, resulting in many civilian casualties.
These operations became some of the most controversial and pivotal events in the recent history of Medellin and symbolized a turning point in the city’s struggle with violence.
Following the government restored state control, efforts began to revitalize Comuna 13, with a focus on improving infrastructure, public services, and social programs.
The introduction of innovative projects like the outdoor escalators in 2011 and a big investment in public spaces sparked a sense of culture and community in Comuna 13. Street art flourished and this turned the neighborhood into a symbol of resilience and transformation.
By the late 2000s and into the 2010s, Comuna 13 became a model for urban regeneration and they attracted global attention and tourism because of its inspiring story.
Yes, you can visit Comuna 13 without joining a tour. Many travelers choose to explore the area independently to experience the vibrant street art, outdoor escalators, and local culture at their own pace. While I don’t go on tours most of the time because I like to explore at my own pace as a slow traveler, visiting Comuna 13 is another story.
Since the history of the Comuna and Medellin in general is so complex, visiting Comuna 13 with a guide can be a very rewarding experience because you can dive really deep into the stories of the neighborhood.
I’m not talking about touristy tours here from big tourist agencies but small local organization that operate out of Comuna 13 itself. They are led and organized by residents of Comuna 13 themselves and participating in these tours can drastically benefit the local community.
In the next section, I’ll highlight three tours that are worth checking out!
The best tours of Comuna 13 are led by Comuna 13 residents, local people who grew up in the neighborhood and know the area inside and out. During their tours, they share personal stories and perspectives that you might not discover through independent exploration, reading or on a commercial touristy tour.
While most touristy tours only cover the main area of Comuna 13 where all the street art and souvenir shops are located, local tour companies also take you to lesser-known areas in the Comuna that are more local and authentic.
Zippy Tour is a local tour agency offering a comprehensive experience in Comuna 13 that focuses on its transformation and cultural dynamic. The tours are available in English and Spanish and last approximately 2.5 to 3 hours.
They include exploration of five neighborhoods in Comuna 13, experiencing artistic expressions like break dance and music, and visiting the outdoor escalators and viewpoints for panoramic views of Medellin.
The Zippy tours really focus on the community’s shift from their troubled past to becoming a thriving artistic and cultural hub. For more detailed information, including how to book a tour, you can visit their website at Zippy Tour Comuna 13.
Street art and Zippy tour guide Yulieth
Explore the vibrant and transformative history of Comuna 13 with AndariegosC13. This intimate tour, perfect for groups of up to 10 people, takes you beyond conventional tourist spots into the heart of the community’s colorful streets and artistic expressions.
From historically significant sites and innovative mobility solutions like electric stairs to local galleries and street performances, this 3-hour journey offers a deep dive into the local culture. The experience is enriched with complimentary water and ends sweetly with homemade ice cream, making for an unforgettable adventure in Comuna 13.
You can book the Andariegos C13 tours here.
If these tours don’t sound appealing to you, there are dozens of Comuna 13 tours to be found on platforms like Viator or GetYourGuide. Do note that most of them won’t be ethical operations.
Choosing a graffiti tour with Casa Kolacho means directly supporting local initiatives that aim to improve the lives of Comuna 13’s residents. The proceeds from these tours are reinvested into the community, funding workshops, cultural events, and social programs.
As a traveler, you can take pride in the fact that your visit will contribute to the ongoing development of the community.
One of the highlights of a Casa Kolacho tour is the exploration of Comuna 13’s world-renowned street art. Through the eyes of Casa Kolacho guides, you can learn about the meanings and inspirations behind the art. Beyond the street art, the tours also offer live hip-hop and breakdance performances.
You can contact Casa Kolacho through their Instagram profile.
Here are the websites I use when I travel to Colombia:
Booking.com: For the best guesthouses, homestays, or small hotels
Hostelworld: To find the best hostels located in the cities
Homestay: For a unique immersive homestay experience in the big cities or the countryside
Busbud and Redbus: The best transport websites for long-distance buses in Colombia. Note that 12Go also works in Colombia but the tickets they will buy for you are open-seat tickets and don’t guarantee a seat on the bus you book online.
Uber: Uber is a convenient and cheap ride-hailing app that can be used in the bigger cities of Colombia. Other apps are Cabify or Didi.
Skyscanner: For affordable flights to Bogota and intercity flights in the country.
Viator and Get Your Guide: book all kinds of activities from the Ciudad Perdida trek to a guided private tour of Comuna 13 in Medellin.
Citizens of many countries, including the United States, Canada, the European Union, Australia, and New Zealand, do not require a visa for short tourist stays (typically up to 90 days). However, this can vary, so it’s always best to check iVisa for the specific requirements for your nationality.
If you’re looking for travel insurance, the one with the best benefits online is undoubtedly Heymondo! It’s very easy to ask for a quote on the website and, if you book with this link you’ll get 5% off!
Access mobile data immediately when entering the country with a Colombian E-sim or a Latamlink E-sim when traveling through multiple countries. If you are already in Colombia, the best local prepaid sim card is Claro.
Yes, the street art is cool and the hip-hop shows contribute to a party atmosphere but don’t forget, when visiting Comuna 13, that these people went through immense struggles in their lives.
Most of them have lost friends and family members during the drug-related violent events in the past so it’s necessary to show respect when you visit the area.
When you go on a tour to Comuna 13 refrain from saying Pablo Escobar’s name out loud, especially in places where locals can hear it.
As said before, these people went through horrifying experiences due to this man and he should not be glorified. The community has worked hard to overcome the negative impacts of those times and prefers to focus on its present and future, emphasizing transformation, resilience, and positive growth.
Even though it’s relatively safe to walk around in Comuna 13 today, there are still corrupt practices in the underworld by criminal groups. To this day, the area of Comuna 13 is still divided by “invisible borders” between three gangs that rule the area.
As a result, in return for safety and protection, all the independent businesses operating in Comuna 13, must pay a weekly or monthly fee to these criminal organizations.
It’s important to take into account before your visit, that this community is fragile. While the inhabitants focus on peace and have a progressive attitude, it’s clear that not much is needed to reverse this process again.
One of these gangs can easily decide that they want to expand their power and gain more territory and go to war with another gang. It’s not all roses and sunshine in Comuna 13.
Before visiting Comuna 13 it’s beneficial to keep a few key points in mind for a safe and educational experience.
Before you embark on a tour, familiarize yourself with Comuna 13’s past to appreciate its transformation and current cultural vibrancy. Engage with locals respectfully and also respect the artwork and the artists.
Even though Comuna 13 is much safer now than it has ever been, stay aware of your surroundings and follow local advice. On a Bogota tour I took before coming to Medellin, they suggested keeping your backpack not on your back but wearing it on your front. That way, you will be less of a target for petty theft.
Lastly, stay hydrated, ask locals for permission before you take a photo, and wear sturdy shoes. Comuna 13 is hilly!
→ Also read: Can You Drink Tap Water in Medellin?
Comuna 13 tours come in all shapes, sizes, and price ranges. It all depends on what you want to get out of a tour, how long you want to explore, and if you opt for a group tour or a private tour.
Below are the two possibilities for the tour organizations I mentioned earlier in the post.
Zippy Tour is a free Comuna 13 walking tour, or at least that is what they claim on their sales page. In truth, tours are never free, and also in this case they expect a donation at the end of the tour.
I have to be honest here that are guide, Yulieth, didn’t ask for the donation at the end of the tour but everyone in our group was eager to give it to her because she gave us an amazing tour.
On their website, they also indicate that a fair donation for these tours is around $10 and that is also what most of us contributed to her.
The tours of Andariegos C13 are not advertised as free tours but come at a small fee on the website of GetYourGuide. A small part of that will go to GetYourGuide themselves so you can say that, whether you choose to go on the free tours of Zippy Tour or pay € 11 for this tour, prices will be approximately the same.
Note that expensive tours with private transport will probably not benefit the local community, only the pockets of the tour operators.
Colorful houses and street art in Comuna 13.
How long a Comuna 13 tour lasts is highly dependent on which tour you pick. It’s safe to say that most tours led by locals will take around 2,5 to 3 hours, including an explanation of the history of Comuna 13 and a visit to local shops, street art, and a dance show.
There are tours out there that seem to last a little bit longer, around 4 hours and they often include a ride with a cable car too.
To get to Comuna 13 in Medellin, the most common and convenient method is using the city’s Metro system. Wherever you are in the city, take a metro to the San Javier station, which is on Line B of the Medellin Metro system. This is the closest metro station to Comuna 13.
Once you arrive at San Javier station, you have a couple of options to reach Comuna 13. It’s possible to walk from the San Javier station to the base of Comuna 13, where the outdoor escalators begin. This walk takes about 15 to 20 minutes, but it’s uphill, so be prepared for a bit of a workout.
If your health doesn’t allow it, there are also buses and taxis at San Javier Metro Station that can take you to Comuna 13. However, what a lot of people don’t know is that Comuna 13 already starts at San Javier Metro Station. While it’s a pretty local neighborhood far away from the escalators and fancy graffiti, your trip into Comuna 13 actually already starts here!
San Javier Metro Station
If you are taking a guided tour of Comuna 13, you will be asked to come to a meeting point where your tour starts.
Big commercial tour operators will have meeting points in El Poblado or offer a hotel pick-up. Smaller tour operators will either have a meeting point close to the escalators in Comuna 13 or pick you up at the San Javier Metro Station.
Yes, Comuna 13 is safe to visit. Comuna 13 has undergone a significant transformation over the past two decades, evolving from a troubled area in the city into a vibrant community known for its street art, cultural projects, and community initiatives.
Safety improvements and community policing make the area more accessible to visitors and tourists who want to learn more about this remarkable transformation.
However, as a traveler, you need to stay aware of your surroundings, especially in areas with a complex history like Comuna 13.
One of the best ways to visit Comuna 13 is with a guided tour, which not only provides an understanding of the area’s history and art but also ensures that you stick to the paths well-trodden by tourists.
Note that there are also many places to have beers and the area smells like marihuana. It’s needless to say that this is not a good place to get wasted!
→ Also read: Is Medellin Safe to Visit? What You Need to Know!
As a traveler deeply drawn to the history of places, community life, and culture and art, I found my visit to Comuna 13 in Medellin to be profoundly moving.
This neighborhood which was once synonymous with the turmoil of Medellin’s darkest days, now is a wonderful place of transformation and hope, offering lessons in resilience that resonate deeply with conscious travelers like myself.
Medellin day trips: Comuna 13
Our journey began with a metro ride to San Javier station, the gateway to Comuna 13. Opting for a guided tour with Zippy, I wanted to ensure that my visit not only allowed me to witness the community’s vibrant art but also to understand the historical and social context behind its transformation.
Our guide, Yulieth, a local woman who grew up in the neighborhood, became the voice of Comuna 13 for the day. She shared personal anecdotes and insights that you simply can’t find in textbooks. It was also lovely to see her greet many people on the street (and even dogs!) which made it clear to everyone in the group what a tight community Comuna 13 is.
We also stopped at a local restaurant at the end that she really liked and a few coffee shops and panaderias on the way for Colombian coffee (tinto!) and ice cream.
The social aspects of Comuna 13’s transformation were particularly striking for me. Community-led initiatives, from educational programs to dance shows, highlight the power of collective action in driving positive change.
It was clear that, while the government and NGOs played significant roles in the neighborhood’s rehabilitation, the true architects of Comuna 13’s revolution were the residents, whose resilience and creativity have woven a new social fabric.
As the tour concluded, I was left with a profound sense of admiration for Comuna 13’s journey from a no-go zone to a must-visit destination for those seeking to understand the complexities of urban transformation.
This tour has been more than just a walk through a neighborhood. It’s been a profound journey of understanding and connection. The spirit of Comuna 13 is a great reminder for us all that the most beautiful stories of hope and renewal can emerge from the deepest challenges!
The best time to visit Comuna 13 highly depends on what you are looking for in a visit. As Medellin is called “the city of eternal spring” the temperature is nice year-round and weather-wise any time of the year is suitable for a visit.
Regarding tourist crowds, I can highly recommend visiting outside of peak season, which is from December to February. Not only is this the time that many foreign tourists visit Colombia, but it’s also holiday season in Colombia and it was a bit insane how many Colombian tourists were on the road.
As a result, Comuna 13 was packed to the brim with domestic travelers when we visited. I believe it’s better to visit in March when the Colombian holiday season is over, and before the Eastern holidays start.
There you go! I hope this post inspired you to visit to Comuna 13 in Medellin and to not only see the street art but also learn about its history and social transformation.
Let me know in the comments below if you have any questions or drop me a message through my contact page.
Also, don’t forget to check out my resources page with my favorite booking platforms and tips to start planning your trip. Additionally, have a look at my favorite travel gear if you want to pack more consciously!
ENJOY!
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Hi! I am Annelies and this is Travelers & Dreamers, a blog about conscious travel which means traveling in a more mindful way, with a positive impact on the world and yourself!
On this website, I cover different topics like slow travel, plant-based food guides, responsible travel, sustainable packing, eco-travel, and more!
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