Alaverdi and The Debed Canyon: An Easy Travel Guide!
December 6, 2024
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Everyone who thinks ancient monasteries are boring, think again! I’ve just spent a month in Armenia, and I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the gazillion churches and old monasteries that dot the country’s landscapes. In this post, I’ll zoom in on Haghpat monastery, a medieval monastery complex and UNESCO World Heritage site in the Lori Region in the north of Armenia. Here we go!
Haghpat Monastery
Haghpat Monastery is one of the most well-preserved and scenic monasteries in Armenia. It is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its impressive religious Armenian architecture, a mix of Byzantine ecclesiastical architecture, and traditional Caucasian vernacular architecture.
Furthermore, the town of Haghpat itself is a fun place to wander around. There isn’t much going on, but it’s a great way to get in touch with the local culture and feel the small-town vibes of Lori province.
There’s also a cute hotel right next to the monastery and plenty of souvenir stalls where you can buy local crafts, artisan products, brandy and wine.
Corridor-shaped Sepelchur
Haghpat Monastery was founded by Queen Khosrovanuysh, the wife of the Bagratid king Ashot III at the end of the 10th century.
It was one of the largest scientific centers in Armenia between the 10th and 13th centuries, famous for the study of astronomy, music, and literature, and its rich library of manuscripts.
Queen Khosrovanush commissioned the construction of the monastery. It started with the largest church of the complex, St. Nshan, in honor of her sons, princes Smbat and Kiurike.
But a large amount of the buildings that you can see today were built later in the following centuries like the the church of St. Gregory, the church of Mother Mary, an 11th-century book depository, a belfry, and a refectory.
Haghpat Complex had to endure a few earthquakes and the region was also invaded many times by foreign armed forces but it was able to stand the test of time and is a popular religious monument today!
Monastery of Haghpat
The monastery complex of Haghpat is located right inside the small village of Haghpat on the slopes of the mighty Debed Canyon. Before I’ll go deeper into the practicalities of visiting this religious site, here’s what you can see at the complex.
The main church of the complex is St. Nshan and it’s the oldest building of the complex. It was built by Queen Khosrvanuch and on the east gable, you can see a bas-relief of her two sons, Smbat and Kiurike.
Aside from St. Nshan (also called the church of the holy cross), you can also find the small domed Church of Sourb Grigor on site, the Church of Mother Mary, and two side chapels called ‘Hamazasp House’ and ‘Chapel of Sourb Astvatsatsin’.
There are various tombs and mausoleums on the site but the most eye-catching one is the sepulcher of the Ukaniants family. It consists of three large rectangular memorial chapels standing side by side with two khachkars on top.
Furthermore, you can see a lot of covered hallways at the monastery serving as a shelter for rectangular flat gravestones. You can walk over them without issue!
The book depository of Haghpat Monastery was built in the 11th century and later reconstructed in the 13th century. This is the place where monks and scribes created manuscripts and stored them for future generations.
Some of these manuscripts survived the test of time and can be seen in Yerevan at the Matenadaran.
Haghpat exterior and gate
The bell tower of Haghpat Monastery was constructed in 1245. It’s a three-story tall free-standing belltower featuring arches and decorative elements typical of that time like twin windows with columns and facade gables.
There are a number of splendid khachkars (Armenian cross-stones) at Haghpat but the most striking one is the Amenaprkich (“All-Savior”) khachkar.
It was created by master sculptor Vahram in 1273 and depicts the crucifixion scene of Jesus Christ flanked by the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene, angels, and the 12 apostles.
A little further away from the main site, you can see a building that served as a large refectory. This is the place where the monks came to eat and it was large enough to accommodate 270 people!
Visiting this refectory certainly makes you realize how huge and important this place was in the Middle Ages!
Haghpat village is located on top of a plateau of a canyon by the Debed River near the Georgian border in Northern Armenia. Getting here by public transport is possible but it will take some effort!
From Yerevan, you can take a minivan to the industrial town of Alaverdi, the main city and transport hub of the Lori region. From Alaverdi bus station, marshrutka vans ply the route to Haghpat but departing hours are a bit confusing.
Marschutka vans also depart regularly to Alaverdi from Vanadzor, Armenia’s third-largest city.
Tower and broken khachkar
Another thing to note is that Alaverdi town isn’t the most enjoyable place to stay in the Debed Canyon, and you are actually better off staying in one of the smaller villages.
We stayed at VL Guesthouse and did all our sightseeing by hitchhiking. The locals know it is hard to get around the canyon as a tourist so they often even stop without asking.
If hitchhiking is not your thing, the best thing to do is to rent a car in Yerevan or visit the monastery on an organized tour.
There are tours starting from Yerevan but you can also go on a day trip from Tbilisi which is actually closer to the region of Lori in Armenia.
Before you visit, here are some useful things to know!
Haghpat Monastery can be visited year-round but expect a lot of crowds (mainly domestic tourists) during the summer months, especially during the weekends.
The best time to visit is on a weekday in the shoulder season when you will only have to share the monastery with a few other people.
Wintertime is also possible as it doesn’t snow much in the region.
Parts of Haghpat Monastery
Haghpat Monastery is open every day of the year. Opening hours are not clear but I wouldn’t visit before 9 A.M. Armenians don’t start their work day early and it is possible that the gate will still be closed if you go earlier in the morning.
You can visit Haghpat completely free of charge!
According to traditional customs in Armenia, women must cover their heads when entering a church. I have seen this in several churches but this isn’t the case at tourist sites like Haghpat Monastery.
As a conscious traveler, show respect to the monastery by keeping your voice down inside the church and dressing modestly. Locals burn candles inside the monastery. They are for sale inside the church if you would like to do this too.
Exterior views of church and chapel
If you love to buy souvenirs, then the stalls around Hanghpat Monastery are the perfect place to get them. I’m normally not into buying stuff at touristy places but the things for sale at Haghpat were of good quality (wine, brandy, crafts,…) and the prices were not inflated!
Right in front of the entrance to the monastery, you can find the Haghpat Hotel. It has a nice terrace where you can have a drink and if you don’t consume anything, admission to the toilet is 100 Armenian Dram.
Small villages in the Debed Canyon
Cute places abound to stay in the Debed Canyon! I would not stay in the city of Alaverdi as it’s a rather dusty and soulless place. Instead, stay in one of the cute villages surrounding Alaverdi, like Haghpat itself, Odzun or Akhtala.
Chapel in Akner village and local medical transport
Here are my top picks in the region:
The Debed Canyon
If you want my advice, I wouldn’t visit the Debed Canyon on a day trip from Tbilisi or Yerevan. There are so many sights and attractions in the region that you can easily spend a week here, slow traveling between all the villages.
Here are some other sights in the region that are worth visiting!
The nearby Sanahin Monastery
The monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin are both Unesco World Heritage Sites. They are close together and there is a hiking trail that connects them.
If you want to walk this hiking trail, all you have to do is download the app from Hike Armenia and look for the World Heritage Trail.
Hiking trails and views around Sanahin
Sanahin Monastery is located right in the center of Sanahin village and has the same stunning features as Haghpat.
A short walk from Sanahin Monastery, you can also find the Mikoyan Museum, a small gallery dedicated to Artem Mikoyan, an Armenian-Soviet aircraft designer, and his brother Anastas, a famous political figure in Armenian society.
Akhtala Fortress and Monastery
A 20-minute drive from Haghpat village, you can find Akhtala Monastery. This nearby monastery stands out from the other ones in the region because of its abundance of colorful well-preserved frescoes.
Odzun Church
One of the cutest towns in the Debed Canyon is Odzun. This little village harbors two fantastic sites, the medieval church of Odzun and the uniquely located monastery of Horomayr.
Last but not least, if you are visiting the Debed Canyon, don’t skip the incredible monastery of Kobayr. The place has been in disrepair but is currently being renovated.
The entrance gate feels like it comes out of a fairytale and the coffee at nearby Melqonyan’s Guest House is delicious!
There you go! I hope you enjoyed this post about Haghpat Monastery in Armenia. Let me know in the comments below if you have any questions or drop me a message through my contact page.
Also, don’t forget to check out my resources page with my favorite booking platforms and tips to start planning your trip. Additionally, have a look at my favorite travel gear if you want to pack more consciously!
ENJOY!
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Hi! I am Annelies and this is Travelers & Dreamers, a blog about conscious travel which means traveling in a more mindful way, with a positive impact on the world and yourself!
On this website, I cover different topics like slow travel, plant-based food guides, responsible travel, sustainable packing, eco-travel, and more!
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